How to Evaluate the Quality of Cultured Pearls: 5 Simple Checks Anyone Can Do

There’s something timeless and powerful about owning a pearl — especially a South Sea pearl from the Philippines. But with so many cultured pearls on the market, how do you know if the pearl in your hand is quality and will last for many years? 

As someone who’s passionate with pearls and is learning more every day, I’ve realized that being able to evaluate a cultured pearl of good quality is significant. Having a grasp of the distinct attribute of pearls and able to tell that it is of quality is fundamental. The good news is that it is possible to evaluate pearls without using any tools - we can observe it directly! As Antoinette Matlin writes, "that quality difference can usually be seen with one's own eyes"(The Pearl Book, 2008). So here are five simple ways to tell if you have a good pearl and again — no special tools required.

1. Luster 

As the rays of light travels through layers of nacre of the pearl and reflected back, an intense brightness is created.  This is luster - the glow from within.  In addition, this is the first thing you see when you look at pearls. A pearl's luster is evaluated from high to low. A vibrant pearl means high luster.  

•  View pearls from all sides.

What I’ve Learned: I avoid viewing pearls on a strong light when judging for luster. 

                                                        

    Baroque silver pearls: Naturally imperfect, intentionally elegant.

2. Surface 

Pearls are not perfect, they are rare and naturally imperfect.  Think of it like this: just like us, human beings, each pearl is born unique. Consider the surface of the pearl as their skin and just like our skin, it also has blemishes. Try to take a closer look and you'll notice tiny ridges, dimples, or irregularities in shape and surface. Although extra fine cultured pearls, the ones with very high quality, their blemishes are almost microscopic (but we will limit our judging here by using our eyes alone). In the Philippines, we call these imperfections fish bites (I don't know why).

• View pearls both in diffused light and intensed light.

What I’ve Learned: I avoid pearls with cracks.

3. Color

The way we perceive colour as individuals is different. Of course, equally noteworthy is the fact that we all have our own colour preferences.  So when buying pearls, it is very important to consider colour base on your personal preference.  It can based through the colour of your skin, hair and even your eyes for example.  To evaluate white cultured pearls, it is essential to consider body colour and overtones of the pearls itself. As pearl expert, Antoinette Matlins writes, the body colour refers to the basic colour, i.e. white, cream, yellow... While the overtone refers to the presence of secondary colour (its tints) usually pinkish, greenish or silver (The Pearl Book 2008). There are many different colours of cultured pearls available on the market today coming from many pearl producing countries.  The Philippines is known for producing natural yellow and golden pearls. 

• Take time visiting jewellery stores before deciding what colour best suits you and then choose the colour that makes you happy.  

What I’ve Learned: I choose colours that that pair well — tones that don’t compete but enhance one another and bring me a quiet kind of joy. 

4.  Size 

Cultured pearls comes in different sizes and are sold by diameter and measured in millimeters (mm) if round and if not, then they are measured by length and width. So it's reasonable to conclude that the bigger the pearl, the more expensive it tends to be. Larger South Sea pearls typically come with a higher price tag too. 

Pearls come in a variety of sizes and qualities, and larger pearls tend to be more valuable, as noted by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), a leading authority on gemstones.

•  Smaller pearls with exceptional luster  are equally beautiful and elegant depending on how it is designed.

What I’ve Learned:  It's better to choose a pearl size that stays within my budget, without compromising luster and surface quality.

5. Weight 

Pearls have a certain heft to them. They feel cool and weighty in your hand. According to Pearls of Joy, high-quality cultured pearls, such as those from (my country) the Philippines, are known for their thick nacre layers—often ranging from 2 to 6 millimeters or more—which contributes to their overall weight and luxurious feel. Heavier cultured pearls generally have thicker nacre, which is a good sign of quality.

What I’ve Learned: Large, cultured South Sea pearls are stunning, but can be quite heavy, especially in earrings and necklaces. 

 ….And finally 

You don’t need to be a jeweller to tell the quality of cultured pearls — just a curious eye and a little knowledge go a long way. By paying attention to simple indicators like luster, surface, shape, size, and even weight, you can make confident choices whether you're buying for beauty, investment, or both.

Pearls may seem delicate and mysterious, but they reveal a lot to those who take the time to look closely. Trust your observations, compare what you see, and don’t be afraid to ask questions. After all, learning about pearls is just as rewarding as wearing them. 

You can always consult a professional or have it appraised by a trusted jeweller if you are still in doubt.

What I’ve learned: The value of a pearl isn’t just in what it costs — it’s in the story it tells, and how it makes you feel when you wear it. 

Until then, keep shining — inside and out.

— Florence 

References

Matlins, A., PG (2008). The Pearl Book: The Definitive Buying Guide – How to Select, Buy, Care for & Enjoy Pearls. GemStone Press. Available at Amazon: The Pearl Book (4th Edition) 

Pearls of Joy. South Sea Pearl Buying Guide. 

Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Pearl Information. 

Note: I am not affiliated with the author or the sellers: Links are provided for your convenience only.